Ready to be put out to 'Texas Pastures'
After a three-year transformation, three dairy families mark first loads out

By LORI COPE | East Texas Edition

Jimmy Tarrant (left) pours of sample of certified organic milk into a tube prior to transferring the milk to his tanker truck. Harry Lewis, who operates the Hopkins County dairy with son Wynton, marked the event as a "big day" for the three county dairy farm families. -- Staff photo by Cope

April 14, 2005 - The pioneers of Texas' organic milk production couldn't contain their smiles on April 7 as the 18-wheeler milk truck backed up to their respective barns in Hopkins County. Finally, after a three-year commitment to convert their traditional dairy operation to organic, their first loads of certified organic milk were taken off the farm to be processed and bottled under the new "Texas Pastures" label.

"We did it," exclaimed Harry Lewis, who along with son Wynton Lewis, are owners of one of three dairies near Sulphur Springs who signed on with Organic Valley cooperative over 1,000 days ago. "And I see organic milk being the future for Hopkins County, and Texas."

Hopkins County, once known as the "Dairy Capital of Texas," has dwindled in the number of milk producers. Travel just about any road in the region and there will be a former dairy operation - sitting idle, Lewis pointed out.

In April 2001, Organic Valley Family of Farms introduced the idea of organic milk production to the region's dairy farmers. About a year later, the cooperative had three Hopkins County dairy families committed to the transformation on their farms, which included no pesticides on the pastures or for fly control, and no antibiotics to treat sick cows.

The biggest benefit for the farmers, according to Organic Valley, is a stable, and higher, milk price. The organic feed is more expensive, but it's the total "cost per cow" versus the higher milk price that determines the bottom line, and that's where the three Hopkins County dairy families say the profits are real.

"The profitability is there ... when you figure the cost per cow," shared Pat Tolson. She and husband Tim signed on to the three-year conversion shortly after Organic Valley's presentation in 2002. "There's less health problems with the cows ... because you manage to keep the cows from getting sick, instead of treating them after they are sick."

East Texas' rich grass production comes into play, generating an over-200-day grazing season, and lessening the need for the more expensive organic feed. "With enough acres per cow, we just feed a little in the barn (while the cow is being milked)," Lewis said. "And cows on enough pasture, that means you don't have the environmental problems."

Tolson shared that when the milk truck came on April 7, and took their first official load of organic milk away, "I felt great. It was a long journey, but well worth it. I definitely see this is a bright future for all of us."

Tolson's daughter and son-in-law, Frances and Barry Charlton, are the third dairy family who are onboard to produce organic milk that will be sold under Organic Valley's "Texas Pastures" label.

The first load of milk, combined from the three farms to make about 40,000 pounds, was collected for hauling in a local Winburn Milk Co. tanker. The producers, still members of their traditional milk cooperative, Dairy Farmers of America (DFA), said their milk will be processed and bottled in Tyler at a Southwest Dairies plant. (The first load was shipped to Wisconsin for processing because the Tyler plant wasn't quite ready for the organic milk, according to a source. But, the milk collected on Monday, April 11, was to be taken to Tyler.)

"I'm proud of the decision we made three years ago," Tolson added. "It was easier to convert than expected. It's not harder (to operate the dairy), just different. So, you can teach an old dog new tricks!"

The Tolson's dairy has been in operation for 30 years, and the Charlton's dairy, about 20 years. The Lewis' dairy was started by Harry's father, and now Wynton, a third generation dairyman, hopes this organic method of producing milk will ensure a future for his daughter, Kan'dis.

"I want Texas to be known as the organic dairy capital. It's good for families who want to keep their farms; and I hope some of the farms that have closed up will think about getting into it," Harry Lewis said.

"The people at Organic Valley are great to deal with," added Tolson. "They offer a great support network, from other farmers to veterinarians."

Texas Pastures organic milk will be sold at Brookshire's grocery stores. The organic milk is traditionally pasteurized and produced without antibiotics, synthetic hormones or pesticides, according to an Organic Valley press release. "Animals are raised humanely with access to pasture and certified organic feed."

April 7 was certainly a big day for the three dairy families. "I don't think Harry slept at all last night," shared wife Billye as the milk truck backed up to their barn.

"Now, I'm ready to get that milk in the Texas Pastures carton and go buy some," Harry added. "It's our milk, made from right here in Hopkins County, for all of Texas."

"The next day I have circled on my calendar is May 15," Tolson said. "That's the day the milk check comes (for the milk shipped in April). We have a celebration planned for that day, too."