Northeast Texas' Hess Ranch recognized for over 150 years in ag production

By LYNN MONTGOMERY | East Texas Edition

March 18, 2004 -- Spanning 1,350 acres and 150-plus years, Hess Ranch, east of Mount Pleasant, is rich in heritage and continues to carry the legacy that has passed from generation to generation.

The 150-year legacy will be recognized on March 19 with the Texas Family Land Heritage award presented by the Texas Department of Agriculture (TDA). Hess Ranch is one of only six ranches (and the only one in Northeast Texas) that will be recognized this year in the over 150 years category. This is the fourth year TDA recognizes properties in this category.

Twenty-nine years ago, TDA began recognizing farms and ranches that have been in continuous operation within the same family for 100 years or more. Criteria for the award, according to the Texas Land Heritage Program, includes the owner must reside in Texas and be able to trace the line of ownership from the first family member to the present, either through direct relatives or by marriage. The land must meet the old U.S. Census definition of a farm: 10 acres or more with agricultural sales of $50 or more a year; or if less than 10 acres, sales of at least $250 a year. The owner must work on the land or if they live off the land, they must be actively managing the everyday operation of the farm or ranch. If all the land has ever been rented to someone outside of the family, it will not qualify. If only a portion is leased, and as much as 10 acres retained in the family for agricultural production with sales of at least $50 annually, it will qualify.

Besides the award plaque, Hess Ranch will also receive a Texas Century Ranch sign to display on their property, and the family's agricultural history will be documented in the annual Family Land Heritage Registry in Austin.

The legacy of this Hess family began in Kentucky with John and Margaret Evans.

"They started from Kentucky with two horses and one mule and a slave," began family patriarch H.L. Hess, current owner of the ranch.

The ride was long and hard for the Evans, he related. Along the way, one of the horses died, but they continued their trek to Texas where other family members had settled. The year was around 1846.

H.L. said his great-grandmother did fine on the trip until she got to Jefferson, where a dog barked and caused a ruckus, which caused her horse to throw her ... right in the middle of town. "She was so embarrassed."

Once the family settled, along the banks that is now called Evans Creek, in the community of Old Union, farming began with cash crops, feed crops, gardens and livestock.

One of the hardships was the Civil War. John went to fight and during the time he was captured by the Yankees. H.L. and the family know this because they have a letter signed by John Evans vowing that he would not serve in the Army of the Confederacy or other armies fighting against the Army of the United States. The release date was July 29, 1865.

Back on the farm, the family grew. A son was born, Walter; and to Walter, a daughter, Viva, the mother of H.L.

Viva was born on Aug. 9, 1888, in a frame farmhouse, which was built in 1850. The house is still standing at the ranch but is in need of repair.

"I have thought about restoring the house to what it originally looked like, but it was cost too much money ... millions," H.L. said.

Viva married the Camp County Sheriff, Hiller Hess, to which two children were born ... a daughter and Hiller Jr. (H.L.). H.L. was born Aug. 9, 1918, exactly 30 years and in exactly the same room, as his Mother had been born.

Viva and Hiller's daughter died when she was 21.

H.L. married and one daughter and four boys was born to this union ... Margaret, Hiller III, Hal, Gary, and Richard, all, including grandchildren and great-grandchildren, who still live on the family ranch.

In the ranch's heyday, there were 24 houses on the place, and 99 percent were full.

"People farmed on the halves, thirds and quarters," H.L. stated. Farming on the halves meant "they got half of what they made," and a third meant "they got a third of corn and a fourth of cotton," and a fourth indicated "they owned all their tools."

Farming was hard, but the families managed to raise such crops as cotton, corn, watermelons, and sweet potatoes. Livestock consisted of Polled Hereford cattle, horses and mules, and Duroc Jersey hogs. They even had their own syrup mill.

"We raised ribbon cane, but there came a time when you couldn't sell it so we changed to sorghum," the patriarch said.

With the biggest syrup mill in the area, according to H.L., "syrup was sold by the truckload (from the ranch). We used 500 gallons of butane a day (to cook the cane down to syrup). The Dallas (Morning) News wrote about the syrup mill. Butane had to come from Sulphur Springs. They would fill the tanks every three days. Back then, butane was three cents a gallon."

Today, most of the old buildings at the ranch are falling down; but some of the corrals are still standing tall.

"See that big board on the bottom of that corral," asked H.L. "That's cypress. That corral was still be standing long after I'm gone. That was good lumber, not what you get today."

Currently, the ranch runs about 375 crossbred momma cows. Bermuda and Johnsongrass abound in the fields. Other yard art includes old trucks and relics of days gone by.

But the relics don't diminish H.L.'s beliefs and convictions about the land.

"I have it in the will, this land will have to descend to the family. If one wants out, they have to sell to someone in the family. It will never leave the Hess family."

Hiller III, his wife Ernestine, and Margaret, the oldest of H.L.'s children will represent the family at the presentation of the Texas Family Land Heritage award in Austin on March 19.